Before I moved to Hawaii I was a skier in Michigan and I race for my ski team during the winter for almost everyday or every other day. I had so much passion in skiing when I was doing to with my teammate and no matter if you won or lost the competition we would always feel very excited at least we did it as a team and accept the result as a team.
When I first moved to Hawaii it was a very special and different experience for me because it unlike anywhere that i've been to but without being on a sports team and have things to do everyday I feel empty inside my heart, until I start surfing.
Surfing is unlike any other sports, it gave me a feeling that every time I go surfing is a different experience and challenge. By just padding out to the water and look for the wave that belongs to you was surprisedly a very peaceful thing to do and it made me feel calm and more focus. Even when I'm just out in the ocean and laying on my board resting it feels like I'm so far away from all the stress and issues and it really was an amazing feeling.
For people who's living on this beautiful island, I highly recommend to go surfing and I hope you will fall in love with this sport just like I did.
My dad LOVES to surf too haha, he used to go almost every day when he was growing up here. I started trying to learn years ago but have yet to actually pick the sport up. Before moving out here and becoming extremely busy with school and work I used to be very athletic, I worked out every morning and did tennis and karate in the evenings. Just like you, before you found surfing, my heart feels pretty empty without sports. Hopefully I will be able to find the time and money to invest in a sport (new or old) again. Mahalo for sharing (:
ReplyDeletewow what a nice picture!!!!! sadly, I don't have chance to learn surfing so far.. If I can, I want to learn and make surfing as my hobby :)
ReplyDeleteNice picture! I love surfing too but i haven't surfed for long time since i've been busy with school, but you reminded me how surfing is awesome through the blog! Thanks! I will try to do surfing as much as I can from now;)
ReplyDeleteImpressive, you can teach me anything but surfing, I just have anxiety just thinking about falling off your board in the middle of the ocean because I'm kind of bad at swimming. Hehe but I love going to the beach!
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