Before I moved to Hawaii I was a skier in Michigan and I race for my ski team during the winter for almost everyday or every other day. I had so much passion in skiing when I was doing to with my teammate and no matter if you won or lost the competition we would always feel very excited at least we did it as a team and accept the result as a team.
When I first moved to Hawaii it was a very special and different experience for me because it unlike anywhere that i've been to but without being on a sports team and have things to do everyday I feel empty inside my heart, until I start surfing.
Surfing is unlike any other sports, it gave me a feeling that every time I go surfing is a different experience and challenge. By just padding out to the water and look for the wave that belongs to you was surprisedly a very peaceful thing to do and it made me feel calm and more focus. Even when I'm just out in the ocean and laying on my board resting it feels like I'm so far away from all the stress and issues and it really was an amazing feeling.
For people who's living on this beautiful island, I highly recommend to go surfing and I hope you will fall in love with this sport just like I did.